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Richmond CastleIt’s probably an American thing, but even after all these years of visiting (and living in) the UK, the history here still blows my mind.

Luke and I just got back from a long weekend in the Yorkshire Dales, which, happily, lived up to all the hype. (There has been a lot of hype on my end of things for the simple fact that I married into a family of Dalesmen who would say, with complete conviction, that Yorkshire is God’s country. Plain and simple.) I’m happy to report that the scenic countryside, the unpredictable weather, the friendliness of the people, and the history were all just as remarkable as I’d been told to expect.

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richmond castle

richmond castle garden

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On our first (and sunniest!) day, we met up with Luke’s newlywed brother and sister-in-law in Richmond. After coffee and paninis, we explored what’s left of the 12th Century castle — surprisingly a lot considering it never saw battle in the 400 years that it was in use. I teased my Bradford-born husband that nobody wanted Yorkshire badly enough to invade. It’s a beautiful part of the world, but after getting soaked walking through fell and bog on one of our days, I can see why an competitor to the throne might decide to establish his empire on friendly terrain. We staged an embarrassing number of these goofy garden pictures, it must be admitted.easby abbey

(the 14th century abbey ruins)

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easby abbey photos easby climbing Then there was Easby Abbey, a pleasant mile and a bit walk along the river from the castle. For climbing enthusiasts like Luke and his brother, Easby is the best expression of a dilapidated historical monument in England: no admissions fee, no unwelcoming gate or “Private property” signs, not even a single CAUTION sign to keep adventurous children (ahem, or adults) from climbing its crumbling walls. In short, a climber’s heaven.  Also, we decided, fresh as we were off of a wedding week, a romantic spot for taking engagement/wedding photos.
pendragon castleFinally, we did a walk to another 12th Century Norman castle in Cumbria, believed by some to be built on the same spot where King Arthur resided five centuries earlier, though sadly there is no evidence of a Saxon stronghold. In any case, Pendragon Castle’s most famous resident was Sir Hugh de Moreville, one of the four knights who murdered St. Thomas Beckett in 1170. Legend has it that Moreville was later haunted by Beckett’s image in the hills surrounding Pendragon.pendragon walk IMG_3462All this history has me wanting to read a good historical fiction set in medieval England. I used to be really into Sharon Kay Penman; loved her Justin de Quincy mysteries as much as her heftier novels based on the lives of Eleanor of Aquitane and Henry II, Llewelyn the Great of Wales, Richard the Lionheart, and the dastardly King John. It may be time for a revisit.

Do you have any recommendations? I’d love to hear!

Toppings books Co. Bath IMG_2497It strikes me as a bit unbalanced that one city should have such an abundance of independent bookstores, while many are lacking even one. But there you have it. Bath is such a city. The incredible thing is, Bath’s bookstores seem not simply to exist but to thrive, and that phenomenon requires a bit of poking and prodding if we’re to understand it — and recreate it.

Topping and Company Booksellers along with Mr. B’s Book Emporium and the High Street chain Waterstone’s make up the triumvirate of Bath’s book empire. Where one might expect rivalry there seems only to be healthy coexistence. Speaking with Lucinda from Mr. B’s last week, I asked how this could be. There’s simply not that much clientele overlap, she indicated. Not between Mr. B’s and Topping, and not even really with Waterstone’s. Each bookstore’s aesthetic, the variety of their stock, and the atmosphere created by the staff all confirm that they are each catering to a different type of reader. The astounding thing to this bookstore blogger is that Bath has enough committed book lovers to support all three. Indeed it was not uncommon when I was studying in Bath to hear students and faculty discuss where they shopped for books. Everyone fell into a camp — Topping, Mr. B’s or Waterstone’s — and we enjoyed discussing the merits and demerits of each one. Most people still visited all three regularly, but ultimately remained loyal to the one favorite. IMG_2498 IMG_2499Topping is a more stretched out version of the traditional English bookstore you might picture tucked into a wall in Covent Garden. It’s wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling books, set into caramel wood flooring with matching oak shelves. It’s a bookstore for the Radio 4 listener, the tweed and Argyle wearer, the Boroughs reading hipster. While other bookstores might be greeted with the bestsellers of the hour, in Topping you are unabashedly greeted by an imposing collection of History and hardback nonfiction. But don’t let this Berlin wall of books intimidate the leisurely fiction reader. Keep on walking and you’ll see they’re just as serious about their Cooking, Humor, Religion/Spirituality, Children’s Literature, Arts, and of course, Literary Fiction as the next bookstore. Keep walking still further, up the stairs now and into the back room, and enter Topping’s attic room full of gorgeous coffee table Art books, music anthologies and extensive Poetry section.
IMG_2502 IMG_2500 IMG_2507One thing I love about Topping is how they seem to seek out only the most beautiful editions of a book and present it as merchandise that has both intrinsic and real monetary value. It’s a design geek’s heaven, with an entire wall devoted to special artsy editions of classic essays and short stories. There’s a certain luxury feel to the books sold at Topping, wrapped as many of them are in cellophane and bound with a branded paper wrapper. Those hand written staff reviews certainly help add to the feeling that this collection of books has been lovingly hand curated, and I love even better that I get to take one home if I buy the book. Topping is another one that recognizes the sales value of offering customers a free cup of coffee (and in a dainty porcelain cup no less). They understand the importance of making shopping an event, and speaking of which, they, like Mr. B’s, take their author events very seriously. It’s a sweet deal, actually. The price of each event ticket goes toward a reserved copy of the book being discussed on the evening … plus wine and some nibbles and, oh yeah, getting to actually meet and listen to your favorite author. Topping realizes customers aren’t going to come in and support them with their wallets unless they believe they’re being sold a valuable product. Their business model goes completely against the Amazon one that says books are inherently cheap and worthless, and so you must sell them for pennies. At Topping, books of a certain calibre enhance the quality of ones life, much like buying organic and Fair Trade groceries over cheap GMOs. Some might say they’re a luxury, an unnecessary expense, but the fact is, you’re better off for it.
IMG_2506 IMG_2510Have you been to any of Bath’s bookstores before? I’d love to know what you thought. And if not, have you visited any stand-out bookstores lately? Fill me in, please!

 

severn swingOn Friday my brother-in-law married his best friend in a beautiful travel-themed wedding. It was an exciting and busy week of making final preparations, running errands, entertaining guests, visiting old friends, wine-ing and dinning, dancing and toasting. It was perfect in every way. But sometimes, in the days leading up to such a big event, it’s necessary to break away from the bulletin folding and flower arranging, and get some fresh air. Which is why, when we found a rope swing tied to a tall tree while on our walk, we naturally had to have a go.

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As you might expect, I’ve done a fair amount of reading in the past three weeks what with flights, train journeys, and an entire week left to my own devices in Bristol. I’m so far behind on my book reviews I thought I’d do a trio of short ones.

neverletmegoEven though I fell desperately in love with Ishiguro when I read The Remains of the Day a few years  back, for some reason Never Let Me Go never made it to the top of my TBR stack. I blame Keira.    But boy, was that my loss! It has been too long since a book broke my heart, and this one, set in an eerily familiar futuristic dystopia, did just that. The story follows three young friends who are brought up in an isolated country school, Hailsham, where children are told they are special and have a very important role to play in society. What that role is exactly, is revealed in Ishiguro’s own suspenseful, good time. Ishiguro is the master at creating empathetic narrators, generous with information, reserved in expressing emotion. Somehow this has the effect of transferring the full weight of the characters’ tragedy to the reader. It’s a gorgeous story of missed chances, betrayed friendships,  and intense love.

thestarboardseaAlthough the thought of being placed in a privileged New England boarding school in the Yuppie years of the 1980s didn’t appeal to me at the time, I’d read such rave reviews about my former professor’s recent novel that I knew I must give it a shot. I’m very glad I did. The Starboard Sea is a coming of age story reminiscent of A Separate Peace and Catcher in the Rye, and like the authors of these novels, Amber Dermont questions the very paradigm of “privilege.” Addressing contemporary themes of homosexual discovery and the dispensability of women (yes, even heiresses), it is another heartbreaking story told by an unreliable yet sympathetic anti-hero who despite having the world at his fingertips has had the one thing that he ever loved taken from him. We understand early on in the novel that Jason somehow had a part to play in driving his best friend Cal to commit suicide, but the full weight of his culpability is only understood after his doomed attempt at forging a second chance for himself. In this soulless world of yacht clubs, Manhattan pent houses and absent parents, it’s not so simple to start over. Beautifully written, The Starboard Sea is another melancholic read, but well worth it.

thebreakFinally a slightly more life-affirming novel from the young Italian novelist who has been compared to Hemingway because of his stripped-down prose that word lovers can’t get enough of. In The Break, Dino is an impassive, unambitious man whose life of laying stone roads by day and playing billiards at night is disrupted with the news that his wife is pregnant. They are older and had long since given up hope of having children. Instead they spent their lives dreaming of the places they’d travel. Now with this news that threatens to offset these theoretical plans, Dino is thrown off balance. He starts taking risks, doing surprising things, and finds he’s less certain about life but is more driven than ever to test its boundaries. Grossi’s writing is a fine wine, meant to be savored, but that goes much too quickly.

cabot tower bristolThere were many noteworthies this week but all of them pale in comparison to Luke’s exciting new…. He passed! He’s now officially Dr. Luke! Congratulations, my dear! You’ve worked hard and I’m so proud of you.

cabot towerYou can’t really beat that, but I’ll mention a few others anyway and then I’m off to help him celebrate. For starters there was our long-awaited climb up Cabot Tower. In all the time that I was either visiting Luke or living in Bristol, the imposing sandstone tower in the center of Brandon Hill park was closed for repairs. It was all the more tragic because Cabot Tower was one of Luke’s favorite spots in Bristol and he’d always dreamed of taking me up to the top. Well, finally, two years later, we made it. The 360 degree views of the city and surrounding countryside were well worth the dizzying spiral climb to the top.

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A few more things…

bristol harbour crepeSavory crepes eaten on the sun drenched Bristol harbor.

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Unputdownable books read in sunny parks and on rooftop patios. Luke may have been, you know, defending five years of hard-slog doctoral research, but the rest of us were on vacation. I finished this sad, beautiful book yesterday and the loss was only bearable because I had two more books waiting for me back at the flat.

new booksSaid books courtesy of Mr. B’s.

chilli fudgeAlso fudge. Lots and lots of Bath fudge. I’d like to say I don’t eat as much of the chilli chocolate since it’s so spicy, but let’s be honest. Which is why…

totterdown stairs…these stairs (all 156 of them!) were so crucial. A twice daily hike up these, on top of several miles of hilly walking, and I’m feeling better about the bathing suit portion of our trip to Portugal at the end of the month.

IMG_2569Making new friends. Ever since discovering Maddie, Luke and I have been on the lookout for the perfect dog. An objective criteria, sure, but Tuey here might just fit the bill.

And since it may just be a bubbly kind of night, how to sabre champagne with a spoon. Have a great weekend!

PS, Another classic combination of chillies and booze.

Mr B's Emporium

There is an independent bookshop in Bath, England that is doing every right. Everything. They’re called Mr. B’s Emporium of Reading Delights, and with a name like that, you can be assured that shopping there will be an event. These days, shopping at a brick-and-mortar, indie bookstore must be an event. Mr. B’s understands this.Mr B's BooksMr B's Books bathtubIMG_2455 Mr B's Books stairsMr B RecommendsMr's B's typewriter

It’s not just the free coffee or the private reading booth or the light and airy rooms that makes it impossible to spend less than an hour browsing here; it’s having a staff that just gets it. Well read, intelligent, approachable and delighted to talk about books all day long, the folks at Mr. B’s understand that what keeps customers coming back to them rather than another bookstore or, heaven forbid, Amazon, is… them. Like me, the Mr B’s Team are makers of lists and the bookstore is filled with shelves labeled “Our Favourites Your Favourites,” “Mr B’s Delightful Lists,” and “What We’re Reading.” However, it’s rare you’ll come across these without first having swapped reading preferences with a staff person when you first arrived. It’s rare, too, you’ll leave empty handed, particularly with a stack of books recommended by a reliable book ambassador who you will leave convinced is your reading soulmate.
IMG_2465Mr B's reading boothFancy an escape? Steal away to Mr. B’s plush private reading booth for an hour of uninterrupted book therapy. And speaking on therapy, did you know the Mr. B’s staff are all trained bibliotherapists and that they offer a number of spa treatments? For fifty-five pounds, forty of which go toward books, you can sit down with a knowledgeable staff person, eat some cake, drink some coffee and discuss your reading preferences in a relaxed environment. It’s the thing to do if you’re in a reading rut. The staff person recommends books you may not have heard of or have never thought to try, and which you will undoubtedly adore.

Mr B's Book EmporiumIMG_2470

Then there’s the practice of constantly innovating, which the folks at Mr. B’s do so as not to fall into their own rut. Such was the case about a year ago when the staff got together and decided they wanted to do their events differently, make them more of an event, as it were. Working with a local Bath-based band, the staff began writing lyrics to songs inspired by the work of authors coming to read. These author events then began with a bit of live music (in addition to mingling, a buffet style dinner and drinks), before sequeing into an altogether more atmospheric author reading. The music was such a hit that the band was happy to make it a regular thing, calling themselves The Bookshop Band and producing the many CDs that can see in the photo above. Their music was playing while I browsed and it sounded quite as professional and polished as any indie folk group coming out of Portland. Think Jose Gonzalez meets The Decemberists. the howling miller

And if your favorite Finnish book happens to be out of print in the UK, why not collaborate with a local artist and a major publishers and print your own Special Edition? Only available at Mr B’s (and only 300 copies in print), The Howling Miller was the first of two Mr B’s Special Edition publications and, judging by customers’ enthusiasm, they will not be the last.IMG_2492So as you can see, I’m smitten. I used to shop here when I was a student in Bath and coming back to it makes my heart swell. Not simply because it marks a chapter in my own life, but because Mr B’s is everything a bookstore ought to be. I began writing this blog as a way to research the market and catalogue my ideas should I ever pluck up the courage to open my own bookstore. If I never do it will be because Mr B’s has already done what I would do and they have done it better. Put simply, it is the best. If you’re in England, go to Bath. If you’re in Bath and must choose between visiting Mr B’s and anything else the city has to offer (Roman Baths included), choose Mr B’s. It’s that good.

scratchoffmapEver since my mother-in-law told me about these scratch off gold maps, I’ve been seeing them everywhere. How cool are they? I know a few red dot travelers (you know the ones — they stick red dots on all the countries they’ve visited, possibly traveling solely for this small pleasure) who would get a kick out of these. The map starts out gold (or American flag colored) until you start scratching away the places you’ve been to reveal the multicolored countries underneath.scratch off map

#wishlisted

(Last shot taken in a bookshop whose many charms will soon be revealed.:)

harbourside view

“Harbourside View” by Emmeline Simpson

bristol dockyardSince Luke and I arrived in Bristol, we’ve come to a surprising realization: here, in this city where we lived for eight and two years respectively, we feel equally like tourists as we do locals. It’s strange, but last night as we tramped down familiar sidewalks in the rain, even passing a former apartment building, we felt like our feet knew intuitively where to go even while we felt totally out of place. It’s a bit like being in a dream where everything is familiar, but something you can’t quite put your finger on is off.

It could very well have been the rain, the night and our travel fatigue. Sure enough, the sun came out this morning and, with it, those old fond feelings of belonging to a city where we lived happily just two years ago. While Luke worked, I spent the morning retracing our old footsteps: Queen’s Square, the Park Street shops and cafes, Brandon Hill park with its views of the city, Clifton Village with its Georgian architecture and posh gastro pubs. I made a point to duck into a favorite cafe any time I felt peckish, and let me tell you, we have a favorite for just about every neighborhood.

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Queen Charlotte Square, Bristol

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Capot Tower at Brandon Hill

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View of Bristol from Brandon Hill

At one point, I popped into the shop at the Bristol Museum and Art Gallery to look for postcards. While I was browsing, my eye was drawn to a section of merchandise by local artists. I’d seen these artists before and, in fact, we own a couple small prints by two of them. What got me excited, though, was that, looking more closely, I realized that a couple of the artists, including one whose print I own, do linocut. All this time I’d been carrying around lovely canvas bag with a print of Bristol by Melanie Wickham, often using it to carry around my own linocut supplies, and I’d never realized it was a linoleum print itself.

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Bristol by Melanie Wickham

A lot can be said about this: Like, how a place never really leaves you even after you leave it. Like how, doesn’t it just show that I must always have been drawn to linocut before I even knew what it was or that I’d one day try my hand at it? And like, how I now understand that what was missing from Bristol in the first twenty-four hours of our visit when everything felt so strange and out of place was a link connecting the us we are today with the us we were in Bristol two years ago.

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“Bridge, Whitebeams, Oaks and Peregrin” by Melanie Wickham

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“Oyster Catchers” by Ian Phillips, another Bristol linocut relief artist.

Needless to say, when I look ahead at these next five days I see a lot of linocut in my future.

What are you up to this weekend? On Thursday we arrived in England and have, since then, been enjoying a relaxing visit with Luke’s family. So far highlights have included long walks along the river, discussing all the exciting details of a brother’s upcoming wedding, and lots and lots of tea and cake. Though we’ve done nothing bookshop related (yet), I thought I’d share a few pictures. Would you like to see?

birmingham arrival(In the airport — tired but happy!)wax stamp invitation(Finally getting to receive our fancy invitation to the wedding.)severn river(Walk into town along the river Severn)tudor buildings shrewsburybroken fenceshrewsbury urc riverthe crowne pub severnshrewsbury dingleshrewsburybear steps shrewsburycakes(I did mention the cakes, right?)welsh bridge shrewsburyelephant mask(Goofing around, playing with wedding photo booth props)

I won’t inundate you, but there may perhaps be more pics to follow next Friday. And a bookshop or two before then? Who knows?

What are you doing this weekend? I hope it’s relaxing and filled with great reading.

thethousandautumns…which I kept calling A Thousand Splendid Suns of Jacob De Zoet, or some similar combination of those words.

So I was a big fan of Cloud Atlas. Loved the unique plots going on in each of the five sections, their subtle interwoven narratives. Loved how David Mitchell didn’t just write five different stories in one, but wrote deftly in several different genres and, extraordinarily, kept it all straight in his and my mind. In fact, that book convinced me that Mitchell is a genius. I really loved the first two stories in Cloud Atlas especially: ”The Pacific Journal of Adam Ewing” and “Letters from Zedelghem.” However, it appears that I was possibly the only one. At least the overwhelming majority of reviewers, bloggers and friends and family I’ve discussed the matter with found Adam Ewing’s chapter boring, written as it was in the eloquent style of the mid -9th Century.

If that was your opinion of Cloud Atlas, then I would caution you against reading The Thousand Autumns of Jacob de Zoet. It is set in the Dutch East India outpost of Nagasaki, Japan in 1799, so nearly the same era as Adam Ewing. While Mitchell abandons the erudite language of Adam Ewing’s Pacific Journal and writes in a much more approachable style, there is still plenty of era-appropriate swindling, a familiar (if multiplied) cast of dishonest, dastardly vilains, and just as much beating up on our beloved, flawed, honest-to-a-fault hero. If that’s not your cup of tea, then my advice is to take a pass on this one.

However, fans of Master and Commander, Memoirs of a Geisha and Yukio Mishima take note. A Thousand Autumns delivers adventure (in both the European naval and Japanese samurai varieties), forbidden cross-cultural romance, tragedy as only real life accounts from the Age of Empire can inspire, and some sad but realistic truths.

Reading back on my notes from A Thousand Autumns, I’m remembering how contemplative and tragic it all felt, especially the ending. Yes, there are moments of grace when, after all the double-dealing and selling each other out, finally a vilain’s heart wins out. Yes, there is justice and vengeance. But there is, at the end, the pervasive suggestion that Mitchell seems to make that no one is in control of his own destiny. They are all flotsam and jetsam tossed about on the capricious seas of 19th Century politics, class warfare and social sparing.

Isn’t that bleak? Also, the implication that one brief encounter, a promise made and unwittingly broken, essentially an attempt to ensnare one’s own future happiness, can backfire and have unimaginable repercussions, back from which even an honest man can never climb.

Mitchell poses the question: Can a person ever successfully seek out happiness when that particular form of it is deemed untouchable by the powers that be? Can you reach your hands into a fire and not get burnt?

I’ve made it sound awfully bleak, which it is and isn’t. It is also a rollicking good page turner, more evidence of Mitchell’s unquestionable genius (though The Thousand Autumns it is not always as cohesive as Cloud Atlas), and a journey to another world in another time and place that would make a fantastic summer read on a plane or, better yet, a boat. (Can you tell I still have travel reading on the brain?)

Readers, I’d love to know your honest opinion: are you a fan of David Mitchell or not so much? Have you read Cloud Atlas or The Thousand Autumns? Will you?

 

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